Brigitte Jones - Amateur Pants...Sylvia in Nepal!

I am alive for those of you enduring my frequent diary entries! Just to let you know, in case you were worried! I was a few times, worried I had been very silly to 'challenge' myself in coming to 'Nepal' and doing a bit of a 'trek'. Tell me, what was I thinking???? And so here I am the 2nd last day of my time in Nepal and I am actually feeling very sad as I have made some very special friends here who have looked after me and helped me to understand and participate in the culture here.

I had met a lovely couple in Hampi - Mary and Andy, they are a couple of really funny people and I enjoyed chatting with them loads. Mary gave me some advice on good books to read and also a contact for coming to Nepal. She introduced me to a guy called 'Bishnu' a guide, a 'trekker' and a climber whom she said was a great person and would give me a good deal and take some of the hassle out of preparing for a trekking trip. But first things first, on flying in to Nepal I met this Japanese guy at the 'exchange counter' he said his name was 'something Hero' so I just called him 'Hero' and he said we could get a taxi together into Thamel in Kathmandu. I told him I would wait downstairs and after waiting 20 minutes I was about to leave but down he came with no explanation as his english is pretty poor so we just look at each other and nod 'taxi'! Outside one guy is trying to get us to go to his hotel but I have already booked with 'via via cafe' and another is trying to barter a deal for his taxi, and I kid you not they were almost physically fighting with each other for our business and Hero is like 'lets walk' and I am like 'lets not my bag is too bloody heavy'. And so we wander around arguing with groups of taxi drivers and then just run after this one we see a little bit away and agree a deal with him. We get to via via cafe and it is a pretty cool place, its like, hmmm I would say it looks like a 'hash pit', not that I would know what one looked like! Its just very dark and moody with lots of tibetan and Nepali natural art work and budhas and stuff. I liked it. So me and Hero stay there, I get my own cool room and he gets landed in the dorm. So I talk to him and he says something about a walk and so I go get my mosquito repellent and come back...I look outside 'hero', no, I look upstairs 'hero' no and so he has disappeared. I get used to our lack of communication and go a wander myself. Kathmandu is very crowded with people, it has far too much traffic in little streets of similar shops at each turn, the street is the road it provides access to bicycles, bicycle rickshaws, motorbikes, mopeds, taxis, fruit hand carts, people and yet more people and tourists galore! In Thammel it is very much catered to the tourist, every shop is for the tourist, there are shops selling jewellery, woolen hats and cardis and jumpers, pashmere and silk scarves, tibetan art and crafts, Nepali art and crafts, outdoor equipment and clothes for those going on the 'treks' or more adventurous trips, book shops, clothes shops, etc, etc and you turn the corner...its the same again - I just keep going right that way I should be able to find my way back - it all looks the same to me...at first!

On my 2nd day I take a cycle rickshaw to the 'Monkey temple' - I know I didn't learn my lesson from the first one and then I went to Durba Square. The Monkey Temple is at the top of a load of steps but not as much as in Hampi...still its enough of a trek for me. At the top there is a temple and also some grave stones and in one part of the temple some buddhist monks are chanting and lighting candles. Also you can see Kathmandu and the smog that hangs just over it from far too much traffic. Durba Square was nice with some beautiful old Temples but I didn't have much time there as I had to meet Bishnu and my cycle rickshaw guy had worked hard for me - well he had to take me around the place the guy deserved a medal (when we were going uphill I was even going to ask him if he wanted me to take over! Well the poor souls don't have '
gears' what is that all about???) At Durba square a tall muscular Nepali guy asked me if I wanted a guide, I had to decline, he asked if I was looking for love, I also declined! Then I went up some steps on one of the buildings and 2 young guys were chatting to me, one of them told me to be careful being a lone woman traveller, I thought that was very sweet, the other offered me ten thousand quid to marry him and bring him in to my country. I said..how much was it you wanted? Kidding, Aye right don't think so pal.

And so back to Via Via cafe and to meet Bishnu, a really nice Nepali guy who invited me to join with him and his friends for Dipawali, a big festival in Nepal. Little did I know what this would consist of! For 3 nights I then sat on Bishnu's motorbike with several of his friends on their bikes driving around Kathmandu to the houses of friends and relatives to sing from about 8pm at night until around midnightish. And Nepal is pretty warm during the day in Kathmandu but at night it can be very very very cold, especially when you are on a motorbike! I must admit I did enjoy watching Bishnu and his friends singing together outside various homes, everyone clapping and some of them dancing (especially the drunk ones), Bishnu on guitar and Vishnu his friend getting jiggy with it on the drum. 2 girs from Denmark joined us as well Aia and Elizabeth who are currently volunteering with an orphanage that Bishnu works with. Those 3 nights were really good fun, and I grew to really love some of the Nepali songs they were singing and joined in a few times myself, well a word of two! Bishnu's friend has made me up a bit of a cd with some of the songs on it - thanks Ogen!!! Oh and I can't forget to mention that Bishnu took me to his aunt and uncles home in Kathmandu for Dipawali Tika. A brother will paint some tika on the middle of the forehead of his sister and a sister for her brother, it really is quite sweet and cousins for each other. And there is LOADS of food, and I mean LOADS! It reminds me of Christmas at home. I felt very privileged to be participating in this experience. Will post the photos when I can.

And so the trek! I don't have much time just now and so may have to continue this blog entry another time! From Kathmandu Bishnu and I travelled to Pokhara for the Ghorepani trek. Pokhara is also very touristy but a little quieter than Thamel and it has a beautiful lake with a gorgeous view of the mountains. The bus took about 7 hours I think. And then we travelled from there to Naya pull to start our Trek. And so there I was with my ill fitting shoes, infected mosquito bite on my ankle, trekking stick, far too much in my jansport bag with no waist support and most importantly a cold from being out for the festival those last 3 nights with a complimentary sore throat thrown in for good measure. I was ready. All I can remember about this trekking experience is - my throat was killing me and I found it sore to swallow water at times, I hated, I mean hated going up the stone steps mile after mile upward, on the 2nd day I went through about 4 tshirts and I could have filled 4 bottles with the sweat I had pouring from my back. I constantly felt dirty, cold, sore and irritable. And when we finally got to the near final destination of Ghorepani I was so relieved and loved the view of the mountains and couldn't wait to have a hot shower put on my dirty clothes and have something to eat. But as I was showering Bishnu said the 'Maoists' were downstairs demanding money from the tourists. It was pretty much the equivalent of 12 quid, but its the principle! And so I was last and try to barter them down as I was in a bit of a fowl mood and I was really really tired and still sick and most people were trekking for ages I was only out for a few days. But no. I also pointed out that where he asked me to sign it said 'voluntary donation' and I didn't particularly feel that way. Again he just smiled and I asked Bishnu for his pen knife and said I would take them on, he said ' they have guns', I said 'I wish I had pms then they would know all about it' and so I dutifully handed over my cash and got a receipt. They are so organised.

'unite all the oppressed classes and people of the world! Long live Marxism-Leninism-Maoism and Parchandapath!!

'For the protection of language, culture and art of Magarat Autonomous Region, for the development of tourist areas and to keep them clean and beautiful and finally to bring about the complete change by completing the Nepalese Revoluntion, your help will be important. We welcome you and our heartfelt thanks for your help.

Voluntary donation (aye right)

biplab Special Regional Bureau, NCP (Maoist) Magarat Autonomous Region.

So there you are.

The little @#$%s!

Anyways, even though I am such a moaner I have lost about half a stone and so that can't be bad. The views on the way of waterfalls and mountains and hills and greenery were beautiful and now that I look back it really was a great opportunity and I would do it again. I don't think Bishnu would put up with me again though!

Tomorrow I go to Thailand, today I am going to visit the orphanage Bishnu supports and take some gifts for the kids and leave a donation with the orphanage. I will post the details of where to send stuff if you are interested and I will get pics of the kids as well.

Thats me for now. Look out for the movie, coming your way soon!

Later
Sylv x