Sly's Travel Journal
27 October 2005
25 October 2005
Hampi at Vikki"s
So Hampi! I am glad the 'French speakers' from my Kannur trip recommended Hampi to me because it is absolutely brilliant. I could not even begin to describe Hampi, it is so beautiful. And as usual I have spent far too much time in the one place - I am such a crap traveller but the truth is...I really hate packing! I get settled, he he! And it has been so nice here staying at the 'Vikki guesthouse' in Hampi. What I really like about the place is that there are different generations of the family all working here together and one of my favourite people in the family has got to be little Varsha, who is 4 years old and can already speak some english - she does the 2nd best rendition of 'twinkle twinkle little star' I know - the first of course coming from the lips of my little niece Callie Boon. The matriarch of the family seems to be the boss although the 'rickshaw driver' and 'postcard seller' that you will regularly find in the rooftop restaurant playing 'cards' or 'canonball' will go through the family advocating why each one is the boss - personally, I still believe its Varsha! But the mother or Grandmother has that look - you know the 'parent' look even with her guests, today myself and the other long drawn out tenant of 'Vikki's' - Camilla Maria from sweden got that look as we had a 'water fight' on the side steps as I was supposed to be washing my clothes in a bucket and a small splash 'accidentally' got CM and she takes up my soaking towel and squeezes it over my head the holy cow, anyway the matriarch heard us laughing hysterically. She didn't seem too impressed, and we tried to suppress our laughter like a pair of naughty school girls as she walked away. At the same time the 'men' of the family were watching cricket upstairs in the restaurant and kept looking over the balcony to find out what we were laughing at. Its really weird when I think of my friendship with Camilla Maria, she is one crazy mama jama - louder than me, which I now find is possible. We met in Goa as she was leaving for Hampi and Kasha and I helped her find out about the train as I also had to find out for my own imminent journey to Hampi. Didn't think I would see her again, but I did...and oh my goodness, she is crazy! I remember her telling me her name was 'Camilla', but when we were in Hampi she kept telling people her name was 'Maria' and so I thought I was introducing her to everyone wrong and started calling her 'Maria' only for her to say - yes my name is Maria...and Camilla. She confuses me, I think maybe she has two personalities - it really wouldn't surprise me! Anyway, when we are together we laugh at each other all the time and if one starts laughing the other laughs and if you know my laugh...well 2 mad laughs and people just stare at us and well that makes us laugh more. Half the time I don't even know what she is laughing at, she just starts laughing like today she was giggling as we ate dinner so I start laughing and ask her 'what am I laughing at anyway' and she says, this Indian guy who sat beside me as I sat watching the sun set this evening as I got up to leave he asked for a kiss and tried to touch my boobies and I had to shout at him and he said he didn't understand so I shouted 'eh la, eh la, eh la' (note: we always say this as in this part of India they say it all the time, I think it means 'over there!' and so we do it for a joke and she is shouting at this guy!) We were all in tears laughing at her! You got to love it, its India.
Anyways, some of the things I have done here have included a tour of the ruined Hindu Temples which are absolutely beautiful. I went with another girl from Sweden - Terese who was here with her brother Andreas. The rickshaw took us round and we went a wandering round the ruins and also the rocks are so beautiful, they are massive rocks, sitting like a giant came and put them there in magnificent piles here and there strategically around the temple ruins - gorgeous. I look forward to putting my pics on, as you just have to see it - its breathtaking. It was also a particularly cool day as our rickshaw went around at the same time as another rickshaw driven by the 'infamous' Maddie - a crazy Hampi guy who loves 'tourist women' - especially when he sees they are travelling alone! Anyways Maddie had a couple of English travellers in his rickshaw - Tracy and Adam and we pretty much did the tour in tandem the 4 of us together with Maddie pointing things out to us here and there. We had such a good time together we decided that we would take another trip together and Maddie took us to a waterfall - which wasn't really a waterfall as there wasn't enough water but there was a little lagoon which was pretty nice for swimming. I went with Tracy and Adam, Terese was sadly sick and had to stay at the guesthouse, her brother Andreas came and CM came along as well. To get to the lagoon you had to do a bit of bouldering and as Tracy and I had our flip flops on we were pretty crap at some of the jumping and climbing, eventually I decided to just bare foot it. The rocks were pretty hot but after that Ashram in Mysore my feet have hardend up 'a bit'. And it was pretty nice. I also went in for a swim and jumped in as Maddie told me there was no rocks - it was fine, thank goodness! My only problem was getting caught in the fishing nets we discovered and trying to climb back up on to the rocks as it was quite slippery.
And so, here in Hampi I have been enjoying doing a lot of relaxing, reading a lot of books, going cycling around the ruins - my bike is priceless it was pink with a basket and looks older than me (right thanks for the jokes!) and I wasn't going to get it at first until I discovered its one of the only bikes in Hampi that actually has gears - and there are a lot of hills in Hampi! I love that bike! I will post the picture of us together! On the other side of the river from Hampi there are more temples and a gorgeous lake. On one visit across CM, Terese and I went to the 'Monkey Temple' which is for the Hindu God 'Hanuman' who look a cross between a monkey and a man. And so as Terese is still not feeling too great CM and I drag, laugh, puff and pant ourselves up the 560 odd steps up to the temple. And guess what - there was ONE monkey! ONE! And the little @$%* took a liking to my bag and kept trying to grab it and kept screaching at me, that was one of my more enjoyable experiences - not! I was then quite glad there was only one! And there was a sign up there saying - monkeys are thieves! Oh joy! And so CM, me and the monkey are up there with a few priests in the temple and a couple of other 'tourists' hanging around and CM says 'it wasn't worth it really was it?' I had to agree in the fact it nearly killed us getting up there, I nearly lost my bag to an angry monkey and the temple was just like a box and a bit disappointing...but...the view was out of this world. You looked down on some of the ruins and the river and the rocks and the palm trees and the green and the browns and it was beautiful. I was glad I went up there. The next time I went over the 'other side' I wanted to hire a bike but they didn't have any left so I got a moped and a little boy offered to be my guide for 100 roupees, I offered 20 and he took it - 30p! So he sat on the front of my bike and directed me around and he loved it - so it wasn't exploitation really! And I did buy him a juice and some biscuits so you can't really say better than that... Moving on swifly, Nanradj my 10 year old guide took me to a beautiful lake where it was mostly Israelis swimming and sun bathing. It was so beautiful, the water was so clear and inviting and the sun was beating down and around the lake there was mountains and palm trees and it was just so breathtaking. And so we stayed a little while and then went on to another Temple, Lukshma I believe - I will probably be told off I always get names wrong never mind spelling! Also really nice up there and beautiful views. I think I really enjoyed most about this day the driving around, it is so beautiful the views, so truly beautiful. Nanradj also took me to a bridge that is not quite completed and we sat and looked at the river and I noticed the 'coricles' - they are circular boats that look like baskets. I decided we would go across the river and come back on one just because I wanted to sit in one - such a tourist. And so we did and I was in shock as a motorbike was sitting in it along with a few people. What was more shocking really was the fact on the way back this small boat had 3 motorbikes, a bicycle, 6 men including the 2 doing the rowing and 3 women and 2 children going across. I have a pic of the motorbikes coming off the boat - its a sight to see! But the guy wouldn't take my 50rs note as it had a tear in it. And so when I went to pay for my moped I deliberately put all of my money in to my pocket and only 150rs in my purse and showed him all I had to pay the 120rs I owed was the 100rs note and the torn 50rs note, he was a bit annoyed but still took it so I was happy! But Nanradj seemed a bit worried in case I couldn't afford his 20rs fee and so he then asked me for his fee there and then! So funny.
Other things I have enjoyed here include going in to the local temple and having the 'holy elephant' bless me with his trunk when I gave it 1r. Been taken to see a beautiful sunset with with one of the rickshaw boys (friend of Maddie - Ramesh)who invited me in to the rickshaw with 2 swiss tourists he was taking at the time. But our relationship turned a bit sour as I denied his request to go and have 'chai' with him or go down to the 'river' and spend some 'time' with him afterwards!
And I have enjoyed the friendship of the namesake of my guesthouse 'Vikki - Vikram Singh!' with whom I have had many long and meaningful chats, laughed a lot, joked a lot and enjoyed a very cool frienship. Vikki is one of those quiet people who just gets on with his work - which he does very well I must say, a business man is born! - he has a sweet nature, a mischievous personality and a very good heart.
I have so many other experiences, too many to mention and so many people. One of the funniest being Buba an 'uncle' in the family at the guesthouse. He is always drinking and I just wonder how he gets any work done. He loves to push me and CM all the time, he is so loud and crazy sometimes and other times he is just funny with his funny faces he makes all the time.
Maybe I will write some more another time, as usual...I am sad to leave but feel its time to move on even though I will miss the great Hampi festival which will be happening next week. Tomorrow I head for Bangalore and Sunday I go to the Himalayas which for some reason Vikki finds funny the thought of me trekking! Well I didn't say anything about Everest but they must have a wee mini hike for the likes of me...hmmm, we will see!
Take care and thanks for your comments, I love them.
Sylv x
15 October 2005
Ok so maybe I am doing too much travelling and not enough Voluntary work!!!
Hi guys
Thanks for keeping up with my blog. I have been trying to put photos on here but a lot of the internet suites are a bit antiquated and its just not happening, and it doesn't look like its going to happen here either in...wait for it...Hampi! Yes I thought as my French speaking friends - you know who you are - kept saying I should go see it from Mysore I decided that on my way back to Bangalore I would do just that. And so here I am after 9 hours on the train from the beautiful Goa. (By the way I cancelled the Kuntapura voluntary work as I couldn't go for whole thing and really I wanted to be involved in the Bangalore youth festival which was cancelled). Ok, so the train..if you go 'general' you are pretty much squashed in with everyone and its a bit claustrophobic although its very cheap. For about 50p more you can get 2nd class which is the 'sleeper' for this you get a 'bed' - which is on one of 3 levels in each cabin space - there is a top level, middle level, and chair level - if yours is the chair level you have to move people from it if they are sitting and not lying on their level and so it seems the top is the best option. They are just like pull out beds, well more like iron boards is the best way I could describe them! I was squashed in with some other tourists but I saw a complete section free and so went there and just dazed watching the world go by, in between falling asleep and snoring nosily! Anyway! I love the toilets - its like a hole - its like? It is a hole in the floor, I was scared I was going to see my purse fall through and disappear along the track - sort of thing that happens to me all the time!!! Apart from that I had a couple of wee guys begging constantly around me, of the whole section I was in they seemed to like hanging out with me and just sat there laughing, dancing, begging and pointing at my crap henna tattoos! They were cute - but I really didn't have any change!
As usual I miss the place I have just left, I have had quite a few interesting 'experiences' in Goa. Because it is not peak season yet, the beach I was at in Benolim is really quiet and beautiful apart from the aforementioned indian girls who are always looking for a 'little business' - bracelets, beads, sarongs, etc, etc. I enjoyed the people I met there and the relaxed atmosphere and all who 'lived' at the guesthouse I was in who made me feel so very welcome and if I disappeared for too long they would question my whereabouts and let me know they worried about me - awww! I like that! I also enjoyed spending time with 'Reena's' nieces Johnsey and Jensey and also Gita - we spent a fab day at the beach together and got a henna tattoo the same to signify out day - how cheezy are we! It was fun but I am still peeling from that day - I got far too much sun and I had been in the sea for about 4 hours straight!
I made a new friend just a few days before I left, and a very significant one at that - her name is 'Kasha' and she is a crazy Polish girl. She ditched her American travelling companion as she preferred my company and we had a laugh together! We went to 'Big Foot' in Margoa to see a place that shows what Goa was like years ago but it started to rain really heavily and so we decided to leave and ask for our money back - the woman laughed and said no. What? So we demanded our money and explained we didn't see anything because of the rain. She said make your complaint to God! Well! We stood at the kiosk desk for about 20 mins asking for service and knocking the window, they girls working there looked really agitated and I got a glimpse of what its like to be a 'young person' whom I have worked with who always got more and more annoying until they got what they wanted! Anyway, it seems others complained as there was no provision for wet weather and she eventually relented and gave us the money back - well it is 30p!!!! Well you have to be in India to understand. I fought for the equivalent of half a pence the other day on the motorcycle taxis - he tried to charge me 5 and a half pence instead of 5 pence! Aye right well that wasn't happening. Kasha and I argue with everyone, but in a funny way, they can't believe we won't accept tourist prices! At first I got annoyed with other people who did this, and now I do it myself! I negotiated a price to use the internet tonight!!! I also introduced Kasha to the 'common folk' of Scotlands Umberella - a plastic bag on the heid! She was a bit unsure at first but eventually loved the idea, we looked like a pair of plonkers - but the rain was jumpin off the pavement and so we needed to do something. She also took her shoes off as they were getting really soaked and damp - we ran after the bus like this shouting 'Going to Margoa - oy stop - going to Margoa????' We couldn't stop laughing at ourselves. We then tried to go see a movie but it was on too late and the bus finishes at 8pm to Benaulim. The bus costs about 2p and a rickshaw costs about one pound twenty. And so there was NO way we were staying there and paying that! Kasha asked people in the cinema if they could give us a lift home! So we went a walk and stumbled across a 'fish' market and walked around pointing at fish and looking very strange to the locals. We also took a couple of photos. Hope you will see them eventually! We then went back to Benaulim on a bus made for 30 people with 60 in it! It was horrible, poor Kashsa was all sunburnt and not happy as people bumped against her, I was a bit unhappy by the whole thing but watching her so miserable made me laugh! She kept shouting 'are you ok Sylvia?' We were about 6 people away from each other. It was so funny!
Anyway, yesterday we went to Palolem beach in the south of Goa, said to be one of the most beautiful. And it is pretty nice, but I must admit - I really like Benaulim and have recommended it to other people I have met.
Oh well, my time is now up. I am a bit tired and I have a rickshaw tour of Hampi tomorow. Hope all is well with you and yours.
Later
Sylv x
07 October 2005
photos
Once again I am in an internet that is pretty crap when it comes to putting my photos on here. And so you will just have to wait a while! I am just enjoying my time relaxing in Goa and meeting some nice people. Those people who have been particularly important to me have been the family I rent a room from, the woman I get a massage from - Reena and her nieces Johnsey and Jensey and her friend Gita. The guys who sell from the stalls round the corner from the guest house I stay in, especially 'Ali' who is a really cool guy and if you come to Goa and visit Benaulim you have to visit his shop - Timetraveller Art. He is a legend of a guy and welcomes everyone in their own language - well I think he knows a couple anyway and I am impressed as I only know a couple of words in a couple of languages! On Sunday I leave for Kundapur which is in Kernataka near Mangalore, I was supposed to go to Bangalore but it seems that the placement has been cancelled and so I will be working with the local wild life instead! I was looking forward to the youth festival, but che sera Its all good. Catch up soon. x
03 October 2005
Mysore to Goa
I am feeling a bit agitated right now I must say as my feet and the bottom of my legs are killing me, the mosquitoes got themselves an army, target = the Scottish one and boy did they have a feast the other night, and how ironic...I was out for dinner at the time...I had forgot to put on my mosquito repellent which is an absolute must after 5pm! I have about 12 bites on each foot!!!! We live and learn.
And so, I will let you know what was happening in Mysore. As you saw from the photos our first night there was on the Sunday which is the day they put the lights on the 'Marharaja's Palace' - 5,000 light bulbs. The next day we had a walk round the palace, which is absolutely beautiful - sorry can't take photos inside! Then for a walk around 'Devaraja Market' - incense and oils and bangles and bags! And no Dave I was not the bag buying the bangles...by the way how is my wee flat doing???? And my car...hope Kate West is taking care of it - her car...hmmm...ok moving on!
That evening we went to see a movie - 'Jogie' or something his name is, big star in India. Couldn't understand a word but it was quite entertaining. At the break a guy behind us explained what the movie was all about. Ann Elise and I were very grateful for this, however, we were shattered so we didn't stay for the last half, I think the doctor did but I believe he said he fell asleep during it!
The next day we went to Chamundi Hill, loads of markets up there and the 'Godly Museum' and a hindu 12th century temple - I took pics of that.
We then went to lunch but on the way I met a boy called Rahmon, he was very sweet and asked me about myself, but then I went in to the restaurant and waved goodbye. Funnily enough on my way out there he was walking past again...Intentional - you will have to ask him that! He then showed me to an old market and to an oil and incense shop where incidentally his mother makes incense! I did buy some as it is pretty cheap and they worked hard for my attention. Funny thing though, the brother of the guy selling the oil happened to be the guy from the movie the previous evening who had tried to explain the movie to myself and Ann Elise. He asked if I had seen some of the workshops and factories in the area, as I hadn't he said he would come with me no problem. I will put photos on of the workmen making wooden items, indian cigarettes and silk items. He asked if there was anything I particularly wanted and I said I would like to get some nice silk tops made for my mum and my sisters and nieces - forget the men! He then took me to a really nice shop, tops are in the post should be there by Christmas!
That day I went back to the hotel 'Govardan' and all my friends were packing ready to go. We went out to dinner for the last time at 'Parklane hotel' then I waved them goodbye and promised to keep in touch - and you better, a few weddings I am planning on going to! And as I went back to my room it suddenly hit me that I was alone after 2 and a half weeks with that mad bunch and here I was alone! I thought I was really looking forward to having time on my own again, but reality hit and I felt really sad...the end of a chapter!
Luckily I had Mullah and Rahmon in Mysore and they showed me around and took care of me. Mullah asked if I had been to an 'Ashram' which I hadn't. It is a place where people of multi-faiths come together to worship/meditate/take time out I suppose. It was quite a long way to the place near Balmorie (I remember the name by singing 'Balamorie Balamorie - scottish children tv prog - I know sad!). Anyways we had a walk past the rice fields and the trees and the children playing in the river and women washing their clothes and people working in the fields (one man was throwing salt on the rice so it tastes better - so you don't need any more salt!) and then we got to a place where there was lots of little water falls in the river that we had to cross. We also climbed on top of an old ashram (well I tried and Mullah dragged me up) beautiful views. At the ashram it has the symbols of the most prominent religions in India and there was loads of beautiful quotes inside the area both from inspired and religious men. At one point Mullah said we had to take our shoes off and we went for a walk round a dirt path with more quotes along the path. Stones and bits of I don't know what were digging in to my feet as inside I was thinking 'ouch' 'oh' 'ouch' 'oh no' 'I can do this!' And so we then got to a marbled place where people will then meditate. I put one foot on the stone and nearly jumped out my skin - I was standing in the local bonfire - no way! Mullah said 'you might find it a bit hot....' - aye understatement of the year. Meanwhile he and Rahmon are walking around like it was cool. I think I was the best laugh the 2 of them have had in a long long time. They just sat there and smiled at me as my face changed several colours and my eyeballs pushed out the sockets half and inch. There was a cool part so I ran over the hot part as fast as I could - more entertainment for the boys! And so that is my experience with an 'ashram'.
I also went with Mullah and Rahmon to a local school, found it so funny the teacher hit the kids with a ruler - as per photo. Had to take a pic of it. The kids were laughing and so was she and she actually seemed like a really nice teacher.
However, one night in the 'Govardan' hotel, (felt like I had lived there for years!) I am watching a movie at night when I see something scurry across the floor - was it? Yes it blinkin well was - a mouse! Sharing my room with me. I couldn't believe it, cockroaches maybe, ants, flys even mosquitos! And so I asked for a change and a discount of course! But that hotel is right beside the movie hall and I know the music to that one movie they play every 3 hours from next door. What a nightmare! I couldn't be bothered moving and so I decided to move on from Mysore - maybe come back for a visit for the festival on the 13th and 14th of October and to see my boys but for now I felt it was time to go - to Cochin or to Goa. Well it had to be Goa right, beaches and a break from all the husstle and busstle of city life!
And here I am and it is beautiful. Just a bit annoying that everyone wants to sell you something and they are so very persistant. 12 girls on the beach tried to sell me ankle bracelets, fruit and sarongs - 12 along a half mile of beach. Ruined it a bit and I have avoided it since then! Yesterday I went to church in Miranmar near Panjim (the capital), there is about ten members but it was lovely to be at church as I havn't been for ages.
Today I went around old Goa and visited some of the cathedrals and churches there. You will see my photos this week hopefully. I took pic of the 'Arch of the Viceroys' (1597) - constructed to comemorate Vasco da Gama's arrival in India. I went to 'The Se (St Catherine's Cathedral), the museum and the Basilica of Bom Jesus 1605 - has the tomb of St Francis Xavier. At the cathedral I met a lovely Lady - Pat who lives in Israel and is originally from London. We pretty much spent the day together in Old Goa and she looked after me buying me lunch and inviting me to join her in her taxi back to Panjim (I usually take the bus!). You will see the photos soon.
Well I am enjoying my travels. The people are lovely and so friendly. The guest house I am staying in at 200 rupees a night about two pound fifty is called the 'Madona' and the family are catholic and very religious. They are a lovely family and I will put a pic on of their son and daughter Peter and Carmen - lovely children.
Thats all from me for now. Hope all is well with you and yours. I think of you all. My old workmates, I think how can you cope without me. My family - how can they live without me! My friends, my walking friend - Rich Smith - I have been on a few cool walks you would like! And Sara you would love it, but like you say you are doing what is good for you right now and one day I believe you will leave it for someone else to run as you go see the world! It is so beautiful and you just have to ask people - is this the bus to....and they will point you in the right direction. So nice. Well I gotta go, got things to do and people to see!
Love to you all.
Sylv x
ps thanks pat for sending on my blog to my mum! x
01 October 2005
Bit of an update!
Well its all been go go go since we went our separte ways from Kannur. I left with Audrey, Azosa, Ann Elise, Dennis, Jessica and Louisa and we headed for Mysore - as you see some of the photos and I have more to put on here. From Mysore we are disperced and went out separate ways and I think thats when it really hit me - the end of another chapter. Its funny I thought this would be one big chapter, instead it is made up of several small ones. Well I don't have much time just now and so I will let you know about my time in Mysore maybe tomorrow or Monday, it should be interesting it includes my sharing a room with one of the Govardan Hotels long term residents - a mouse. My guides Mullah and Rahmon, they are the best. And visiting an 'Ashram' where I had to walk on fire hot stones along a sacred path - no shoes allowed...agony...I had tears!
For now I have taken some time out from Mysore and I am now in Goa (After about 16 hours by bus) for a bit of a break! It may sound strange to you, but the big cities can be quite demanding. I have a week here before I go to Bangalore for a youth festival, bringing young people together from around the world. That will last 3 weeks then I am off to Nepal for 2 weeks then to my school placement in Thailand, Mae Sot.
Well thats it for now, catch up soon and thanks for your comments.
x